The Lure of Leftovers
In which a GI-challenged food writer revels in the comfort of leftovers —and the sunny satisfaction of putting an egg on it.
Read MoreSnack Sightings: Little Somethings (and One Big Nothing)
A round up of eight under $10 snack sightings in Manhattan and Brooklyn--from Apulian Panzerotti bites to salted buttermilk biscuits, yet another cheese puff and a Korean pancake that inspired great hope, and then despair.
Read MoreThe Real Italian Deal...as if it's No Big Deal
The eponymous Lillo is an unkempt bearded bear of a man who speaks English haltingly but manages to convey his absolute pride in his cooking and love of Italia at the same time that he exudes utter nonchalance. My paisa panino ($9.95) with tuna, EVOO and artichoke hearts was the kind of perfect sandwich to which I aspire in my own kitchen
Read MoreMeal in a Mouthful: Recharge Your Holiday Shopping Batteries
One evening when leaving the main branch of the New York Public Library I was peckish. Passing the food booths at the Bryant Park Holiday Market. I looked for a little something to hold me, and I found not just one but three little somethings at the Arancini Brothers pop-up shop. Arancini are Sicilian fried rice balls, named for the oranges they resemble.
Read MoreA Hot Blistering Pocket of Italy in Carroll Gardens
It’s as big as a child’s toy football. The outside is perfectly golden and blistered. There’s no easy way to open it that will not result in oozy messiness on your paper plate. You take your plastic fork and punch the puffy crescent of fried dough, and a big blop of ricotta and mozzarella cheese glurts out (yes, I had to make up a word to describe this). There are pink slices of ham, strewn, like rose petals, within the cheese.
Read MoreMama Mia! Tramezzini!
But as happens in New York City, there is always something new to take you out of your old aches and frets. In my case it is usually a snack. Crossing Clinton I saw Tramezzini NYC, a small space with summery white exposed brick walls, two counters and a blackboard outside advertising iced coffee and Venetian sandwiches. In fact, Tramezzini, stands for a particular kind of Venetian sandwich, made of soft olive oil bread—in this case, flown in from the Veneto.
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