Step into Earl’s Beer and Cheese off of Park Avenue and you enter a restaurant kitted out like a Catskills hunting lodge. Vintage illuminated rural scenes are set into the wall, and a stuffed buck presides over you,  a little unsettlingly, as you dine. Also unsettling, in a different way, is the presence of ground up potato chips in my gorgonzola and ginger fig preserve sandwich ($8.00), but Earl’s Beer and Cheese has a canny knack for making the improbable ingredient the crowning touch.